From Menorca to Ibiza in five easy steps!


In Mahon, we found that the marina, in addition to being ridiculously overpriced, was also lacking in facilities.  They have no showers availabe to visiting boaters.  The Club Maritimo has showers in their building, but they cost five euros apiece for non-members.  You would think that the marina could cover this cost, but they made no attempt to suggest it  when we complained about the price/quality inequities.  


We saw the nice center of Mahon, bustling with tourists but still pleasant.  later we went on a shopping spree at Eroski, the large supermarket nearby.  It was the first time we had seen a real supermarket since leaving Israel.  We left laden down full backpacks and armfuls of bags.  We anticiapted staying inanchorages all the way until we reach the mainland of Spain, some five days.  And one should always have more than enough at sea.  I think we could feed a family of four for a week with what we bought there.  


We left with no problems on the morning of the 19th.  On our way West along Menorca’s southern coast we pass a large stretch of beach.  We decide to anchor there for a bit and go swimming.  This is one of the great joys of boating; the possibility of coming onto a new place and exploring if you feel like it.


Our first anchorage was in a spot called Cala Trebaluja.  It is a beautiful cove with cliffs to either side and a sandy beach at the end.  There’s also a small river that runs our to the sea on the western edge of the beach.  There were plenty of other boats anchored there.  Many, but not all, of them left as night fell.


We swam to shore to check out the beach and hike around a bit in the flanking pine-covered hills.  A grafito on a park sign indicated quite forcefully that this was a nudist beach.  Some of the bathers were complying.  I’m not sure if the dreadlocked girl wearing only some kind of decorative cord around her waist counts.  


After we’d had our share of the sights on land, we swam back to where Tocayo was anchored.  Dinner was halibut filets with lime, onions and garlic backed by some steamed zucchini, carrots and asparagus.  We had to improvise a steamer using the metal colander sitting in our large pot.  We still need a few things for the galley.  We opened a bottle of Marques de Caceres and laughed at how nice we had it eating dinner in that cove.  At one point a lot of flis came, landing all over the place, but not particularly on the food.  they were very annoying, but after a while, they disappeared as quickly as they had materialized.  


In the morning of the 20th, we slipped off and headed over to Mallorca.  The passage between the islands is remarkable only for the lack of wind.  We have to motor it the whole way.  Trust me, this can get depressing.   We pulled into Cala Magruner, which is one finger of a triple cove.  There was a bit of a swell inside.  We anchored in one spot temporarily while we waited for some of the other boats to clear out.  I went swimming near the boat and Andrew swam to shore.  


I was looking forward to making burritos that night since we had picked up all the necessary ingredients at Eroski.  Well, all th ingredients save cilantro which they were out of.  Still, the salsa and TVP burrito filling turned out great.  We had to reposition the boat because we were anchored quite close to the rock wall of the cove.  The other boats had left by this point, so we had our pick of spots.  We had the primary anchor and a kedge off the back.  The swell, however, increased.  The whole boat was rocking uncomfortably.  In the aft cabin, two wood panels that have begun to warp make horrible creaking noises.  This is not the noise of a haunted house door opening slowly, it’s more like a series of sharp cracks and screeches.  This is going on two feet from my head.  Suffice to say, neither one of us got much sleep that night.  Andrew was on the point of wakin me up and just taking off because it got so bad.


We leave early in the morning, bleary-eyed and cranky.  Motoring down the coast of Mallorca we have time for naps and reading in the very light sea.  A gentle wind picked up past Punta Salinas, so we sailed for maybe an hour before coming to a beach anchorage.  This anchorage was a stretch of beach with a sandy pine forest springing up behind it.  In the wide bay there were a few small islets that divided the area into two zones.  There were at least a dozen sailboats and motorboats sitting at anchor with little RIBs zipping back and forth.


After eating lunch and taking a small nap, we made the pilgrimage to the beach our usual way.  We threw the disc around in a moderately strong wind.  Thn we walked back into the pines to discover a whole other world.  It was quiet and smelled wonderfully of pine needles, warm dirt and aromatic shrubs.  There was rosemary growing wild in the clumps of brush under the tall, umbrellate pines.   It was a joy for us to be in a sylvan place, a wooded place so obviously not the sea.  There are no trees at sea (despite my daydreams to the contrary) and it’s good to be reminded of how nice their proximity is.  


We swam back o the boat for a dinner of shrimp with spaghetti.  The water in this unprotected bay was much calmer than last night’s “sheltered” cove.  We sat chatting in the cockpit, iistening to the sounds of conversation and cooking coming from the neighboring boats.  This time they didn’t all clear out.  


Another simple pleasure that we have come to appreciate in these anchorages is showering outside.  The boat has a shower in the back of the cockpit that is meant for using after swimming.  It’s a little handheld number, but it has hot water.  Standing out on the stern and showering while the evening slowly becomes night and stars are starting to appear is just wonderful.  It makes you feel so much more clean than showering in the heads.  


That night we slept like babies.  Our only problem was the need to get up early the next day for the sail (or motor as it were) to Ibiza, some 67 miles.  That will take us most of a day.  the earlier we start the better our chances of arriving before dark.